Bruges… I have two words for Bruges…. Colin Farrell!! No, really..... History and chocolate.
I love arriving in a city that I know absolutely nothing about. Bruges to me has only been associated with Colin Farrell, who introduced me to the city back in 2008, in the movie "In Bruges". Prior to that I had not even heard of it. And all I can say is “thank you Colin”!
I love arriving in a city that I know absolutely nothing about. Bruges to me has only been associated with Colin Farrell, who introduced me to the city back in 2008, in the movie "In Bruges". Prior to that I had not even heard of it. And all I can say is “thank you Colin”!
To quote ‘Arry, from the movie, “it’s like a fairytale”. And it truly is. It is human in scale with most buildings only 2 or 3 storeys high, except for the oversized public buildings of which there are a few. These are so ornate they actually look “fairytale” like. The local horse and carriage rides, with their clippity clop sound, transport you not only around the city, but also back in time to when it would have been the only form of transport. Obviously a small city (430 hectares with a current population of only 27,000 people), and given the preservation of the original buildings, the streets are small and usually one way for traffic, if they allow vehicles at all. Though you must keep an eye open for bicycles, which besides walking, are a very popular mode of transport here. Or just listen out for the bell ringing a warning for you.
Immediately upon setting eyes on this city, I was fascinated and intrigued. I needed to discover its history. So in a nutshell, here you go:
Bruges had a Viking beginning, way back in the 9th century. It is thought that the name derives from an old Scandinavian word “Brygga” meaning ‘harbour’ or ‘mooring’. Geographically Bruges is connected to the North Sea by the river Zwin, which made it an important international trading port given it’s ideal location between the northern Hanseatic League (a commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and their market towns that dominated trade along the coast of Northern Europe. It stretched from the Baltic to the North Sea and inland during the Late Middle Ages and beyond, and the southern trade routes). In the thirteenth and fourteenth century, Bruges was one of the largest economic centres of Western Europe. There were large scale imports of all kinds of raw materials and production and export of luxury and artistic goods. The most important import was English wool, which was utilised to make the renowned Flemish linen, which was then exported. Traded materials included fur, oak, iron, silver, grain, wine, gemstones, ivory, oil and gold. Bruges was known for its production of luxury textiles and confectionery, as well of course, art, having given us painters such as Jan Van Eyck and Hans Memling.
Bruges had a Viking beginning, way back in the 9th century. It is thought that the name derives from an old Scandinavian word “Brygga” meaning ‘harbour’ or ‘mooring’. Geographically Bruges is connected to the North Sea by the river Zwin, which made it an important international trading port given it’s ideal location between the northern Hanseatic League (a commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and their market towns that dominated trade along the coast of Northern Europe. It stretched from the Baltic to the North Sea and inland during the Late Middle Ages and beyond, and the southern trade routes). In the thirteenth and fourteenth century, Bruges was one of the largest economic centres of Western Europe. There were large scale imports of all kinds of raw materials and production and export of luxury and artistic goods. The most important import was English wool, which was utilised to make the renowned Flemish linen, which was then exported. Traded materials included fur, oak, iron, silver, grain, wine, gemstones, ivory, oil and gold. Bruges was known for its production of luxury textiles and confectionery, as well of course, art, having given us painters such as Jan Van Eyck and Hans Memling.
But Bruges success was tidal, with it’s rise, and fall, and rise again. When the river began to silt up, (soon after the 12th century) Bruges adapted by creating ports in Damme and Sluis and developing land transportation. Traders from all over the world continued to do business in Bruges. In fact it is believed that the first stock exchange was born in Bruges. On Vlamingstraat you can still find the Ter Beurze building (see photo below), a famous 14th century inn. Through it’s location in the commercial and financial heart of the city, it was very much frequented by foreign traders. The business transacted here (securities were bought and sold, money exchanged, etc) served as an example to other European centres and hence the name “Bourse” (from Beurze) is now utilised and remains the same in many different languages.
The fall of Bruges started around the 15th century when the Zwin started to silt up further and the larger harbour in Antwerp began to dominate. Art and architecture continued to flourish however. But by the end of the 16th century Bruges no longer held any power and by the middle of the 18th century, it was the poorest city in Belgium.
The last half of the 19th century saw another rise by way of tourism, attracting wealthy British and French tourists. It truly experienced a renaissance in 1965 when it underwent major renovations and restorations and generated a surge in tourism and economic activity. It was then designated “European Capital of Culture” in 2002 and now attracts 3 million tourists annually.
The last half of the 19th century saw another rise by way of tourism, attracting wealthy British and French tourists. It truly experienced a renaissance in 1965 when it underwent major renovations and restorations and generated a surge in tourism and economic activity. It was then designated “European Capital of Culture” in 2002 and now attracts 3 million tourists annually.
But lets get back to Colin…oh, sorry, I meant chocolate! I kept wondering how it is that there are so many chocolate shops in Bruges. And I mean the streets are literally riddled with chocolate shops. Chocolate hit mainland Europe in the 17th century and it seems that Belgium was the fortunate recipient of a steady supply of cocoa beans when it’s colonized the African Congo in 1908. Belgium now produces 172 000 tons of the stuff! In fact the Belgians must have a sweet tooth because not only is chocolate everywhere, so too are waffles, specloos (spicy crisp cookies) and sweet cafes, yes that’s right, cafes only selling sweet things!
Besides chocolate, typical food and drink include a traditional Flemish stew, which is meat, cooked long and slowly, with a beer specially brewed for cooking only, mussels, waffles....
And now to beer… well it would be impossible to try all the beers that Belgium produces without requiring a liver transplant. Given that there are currently 3000 different beers being produced now, with new ones introduced each week, it’s hard to keep up. During the 15th century, when the city was at its most powerful, Bruges boasted no less than 54 breweries within its fortified walls.
Of course there is plenty to see in Bruges, though you could cover it all in a jam packed few days. From the Belfry with its 366 steps, to an exhibition of Salvador Dali and then from Picasso to the potato (yes, there is a Frites Museum!), there is a lot to see. Of course you must visit the Historium as it has recreated 15th century Bruges as a walk through exhibition.
And now to beer… well it would be impossible to try all the beers that Belgium produces without requiring a liver transplant. Given that there are currently 3000 different beers being produced now, with new ones introduced each week, it’s hard to keep up. During the 15th century, when the city was at its most powerful, Bruges boasted no less than 54 breweries within its fortified walls.
Of course there is plenty to see in Bruges, though you could cover it all in a jam packed few days. From the Belfry with its 366 steps, to an exhibition of Salvador Dali and then from Picasso to the potato (yes, there is a Frites Museum!), there is a lot to see. Of course you must visit the Historium as it has recreated 15th century Bruges as a walk through exhibition.
Of course, besides the history and architecture, the people are what make a city, and the Belgians don’t disappoint. Friendly and relaxed, it is a pleasure to deal with them (aside from making me completely jealous as everyone I met here could speak three languages!). I could not fault the service I got anywhere, from buying frites to ordering a drink at a 5 star hotel. Ultra friendly and sincere service. Where have these Belgians been hiding all this time!? A special thanks to Hans at my hotel for the great service from both himself and his staff. See you again this summer!
PS See the movie In Bruges. Consider it a travelogue! Besides featuring Bruges, it features Colin Farrell! (Anyone would think I like Colin Farrell? :) )
PPS I obviously was heavily influenced by the portraits on display all around.. it was all about the Portrait!
PS See the movie In Bruges. Consider it a travelogue! Besides featuring Bruges, it features Colin Farrell! (Anyone would think I like Colin Farrell? :) )
PPS I obviously was heavily influenced by the portraits on display all around.. it was all about the Portrait!